Stepping up to the plate
Twenty Seven Steps co-owner, Welshman, Paul Howells, grew up in a food-loving family where a ham was often steaming on the stove, and dinner-table conversations revolved around what was being cooked next. At 14, he got his first taste of professional kitchens working alongside his chef brother on the Isle of Wight, then continued his culinary education in Sweden, France, and Ireland before making his way to New Zealand. His influences find their way onto the menu today, notably his mother’s pumpkin-and-feta loaf recipe.
Operating from one of Christchurch’s smallest professional kitchens, this team proves that great restaurants aren’t defined by the size of their kitchens, but by the people working within them. This New Regent Street favourite is currently home to the youngest kitchen team in its history, with six chefs, most of them in their twenties, steering one of the city’s most respected kitchens.
Leading the charge is Head Chef Seth Joblin (23), who arrived as a dishwasher in 2019 at age 17 and worked his way through the ranks to become head chef at just 22. Alongside him are Sous Chef Gustav Nybro Soendergaard (21), Grill Chef Te Ao Te Ruru (21), and Pastry Chefs Abby Challenger (21) and Lun Soon Tek (32).
Every member of the kitchen team has the opportunity to contribute dishes to the seasonally evolving menu, while retaining beloved restaurant signatures, including the duck liver parfait, risotto, premium Angus beef fillet, and fresh fish dishes sourced through long-standing supplier relationships such as Theo’s Fisheries and Angus Meats.
Over the years, the restaurant has become something of a launchpad for hospitality talent. Former chefs Carlos Calisto and Karla Villa Delgado now own the acclaimed Xolo, while Kaid Burke and Georgia Twentyman have built successful careers in Melbourne. Others, including Exiquel Ogena and Jo Corkery, have gone on to establish Meraki Cakes. The restaurant also works closely with students from Ara, helping nurture the next generation of chefs.
Judging by the talent currently behind the pass, Christchurch’s next generation of hospitality stars is already hard at work.