The year of the rabbit

WORDS Liam Stretch

The Chinese dragons guarding the entrance to The Terrace’s Zodiac restaurant offer a hint of its hidden treasures. Beyond the temple-like doors unfolds a realm of plush elegance, where dim lighting and a sense of intimacy envelop you.

Everywhere you look, there are deliberate design touches, which owner Tony Astle says is all to add to the experience. 

The red carpets underfoot evoke nostalgia for traditional Chinese eateries, while silk lanterns specially brought in from Israel light the space gently. Bespoke artworks grace the walls, including a masterpiece by a former staff member.

Monogrammed Chinese art are on the chair backs, and MOMA pieces adorn the bar area, adding a further flourish. Yet, the pinnacle of this artistry is the curved wall that separates the bustling kitchen from the diners. Illuminated by a blue light, this wall frames a tropical fish tank. Diners can now peer through this portal into the kitchen, where their meals are crafted.

“The fish tank was the starting point of this whole interior. One of my memories as a kid was of Chinese restaurants, and there was always a fish tank, whether an actual one or a little toy one. But I wanted it to be bigger and a feature; I wanted people to see the action taking place in the kitchen.”

Like some of the pieces Tony has brought with him from his years in the restaurant business, the menu also boasts some dishes that bear his signature.

“The foundation of the menu was a lot of my classic dishes, which I’ve built up over the years.” These include Penang curry of beef cheek, mandarin-marinated tuna salad, moong dal and mixed seed salad, sticky beef wontons, and spinach leaves with toasted coconut and mango. 

“From there, we found our path of where we wanted to go next.”

The house-made Peking duck reigns supreme in a menu based on sharing plates. 

Tony also mentions he has always had a passion for dumplings, so it was important to him that the menu really highlights these. These include crystal jade scallop dumplings, Har gow prawn dumplings, and crispy-bottom lamb and fennel dumplings with dark chilli. 

Tony says he wants the menu to offer something for everyone, not just in terms of taste but also affordability.

“We’re a place you can come and have a couple of plates of dumplings and beers or have a big celebration and treat yourselves to a duck. It’s all about accessibility while offering the freshest homemade food.”

The spirits behind the bar echo this spirit of excellence. The gin collection is extensive, while a captivating array of Japanese whiskies adds an international flair to the experience. For a dash of mystique, Zodiac’s ‘Year of the Cocktail’ list bears the names of the Chinese zodiacs. Like the Rat: a blend of Black Tears 5 Spiced rum, Rose Rabbit barrel-aged cherry liqueur, and Eden Orchards pure cherry juice, or the Ox: Tanqueray gin, lychee, apple juice, cognac, apricot, and frozen grapes.

As the stars align, Zodiac’s journey doesn’t halt – it evolves. Tony, not one to sit on his hands, is always refining. A new menu is in the works, honing in on Zodiac’s strengths. He mentions something is coming that “we’ve never seen in Christchurch”. A new fish tropical fish tank is also on its way from a specialist producer in Miami.

zodiacbar.co.nz

Liam Stretch